Full Bathroom Renovation

A full renovation takes the bathroom down to the studs and rebuilds it, which makes it the only remodel that can genuinely fix a bad layout. Everything comes out — tile, tub, vanity, subfloor if it needs to go.

With the walls open, the room stops being fixed in place:

• Move a wall. Steal a foot of depth from a hallway closet and a cramped bathroom stops feeling cramped.
• Widen the doorway. Standard on older homes is 24 inches. Thirty-two or thirty-six changes how the room reads the moment you walk in.
• Add real storage. A recessed linen cabinet fits between studs in space you're already paying for.
• Correct the original layout. Homes built through the 1970s and 80s around here tend to run tight three-fixture plans with the toilet directly in the sightline of the door. That's fixable, but only at this level of scope.

Master Bath & Suite Remodels

Master bath remodels are the largest bathroom projects we build, and usually the ones where the layout changes most. Typical scope includes:

• Double vanity. The single most requested change in a master bath, and the one that most often drives a wall move to find the run length.
• Separate water closet. Partitioning the toilet is a small amount of framing that meaningfully changes how two people share the room.
• Tiled shower with bench and niches. Recessed niches set during tile work instead of a caddy hung off the valve later.
• Freestanding or built-in tub. Both work here — see the cost note below before you commit to freestanding.
• Closet reconfiguration. If the suite connects to the closet, doing both while the walls are open costs far less than coming back for it in two years.

One cost note worth knowing before you fall in love with a photo: a freestanding tub needs a floor-mounted filler, and on a slab foundation that means running supply lines through concrete. It's a beautiful install and we build them regularly — but a deck-mounted or wall-mounted filler gets you most of the same look for meaningfully less.

Tub-to-Shower Conversions

Tub-to-shower conversion is the most requested bathroom remodel we do, and typically the fastest to complete. Most people stop using the tub years before they replace it. Pulling it out and building a proper tiled shower opens the room visually, makes the space easier to use daily, and takes considerably less time than a full renovation because the footprint never changes.

One honest caveat on cost: a tub drain sits at one end of the unit, and a shower drain usually wants to be centered. That's a short move, but on a slab it still means cutting concrete. It's a small line item rather than a large one — we just don't want it to surprise you at proposal.

The other thing we'll tell you: think about keeping at least one tub somewhere in the house. If this is your only one, converting it can narrow your buyer pool down the road, particularly with families. Worth a conversation, not a dealbreaker.

Walk-In & Curbless Showers

Curbless showers eliminate the step-over entirely, and they're far cheaper to build during a remodel than to retrofit later. A true curbless entry requires the shower floor to sit level with the bathroom floor, which means recessing the pan into the structure below. On slab, that's cutting and recessing concrete — real work, and the reason curbless costs more than a standard low-curb shower. A linear drain along the back wall usually gives the cleanest result and the simplest slope.

If accessibility is anywhere in your thinking — for you now or for a parent later — this is the moment to build it in:

• Blocking for future grab bars. Costs almost nothing while the walls are open, and is genuinely invasive to add afterward. We recommend it on every shower we build, whether or not you ever mount anything to it.
• A 36-inch door opening. Wide enough for a walker or wheelchair, and it makes the room feel larger regardless.
• Handheld sprayer on a slide bar. Useful at any age. Essential if seated bathing ever becomes the norm.
• Comfort-height fixtures. A taller toilet and vanity are easier on knees and backs, and read as current design rather than as accommodation.
• A bench sized to actually sit on. Not the token corner triangle — a real seat, framed and waterproofed as part of the shower.

None of it has to look clinical. Most of what we build reads as a nice shower that happens to work for everyone in the house.

Guest Baths & Powder Rooms

Guest baths and powder rooms are smaller in scope but often the most visible bathroom in the house. The powder room is the one room visitors reliably see, and it's usually the cheapest room in a home to make genuinely memorable — a good vanity, real tile, decent lighting, and better hardware go a long way in a space that small.

The tradeoff to weigh is storage. A pedestal sink or a floating vanity opens up floor space and makes a tight room feel considerably larger, but you lose the cabinet underneath. In a true powder room with no shower, that's usually the right trade. In a guest bath someone actually stays in, it usually isn't.

Tile, Vanity & Fixture Updates

When the layout already works, a finish-level update replaces what you see without moving anything behind the walls. New tile, a new vanity and top, updated fixtures, lighting, mirrors, and hardware. No plumbing relocation, no framing, shorter timeline, lower cost. For a bathroom that functions fine but looks like the year it was built, this is often all it needs.

The one thing we won't do is tile over a problem. If demo shows failing waterproofing, a shower pan that was never sloped correctly, or tile set over drywall instead of backer board, we will tell you directly and provide necessary costs. Finishing over failed substrate looks fine for about two years and then costs you another remodel.

Bathroom Additions

Adding a bathroom where there wasn't one is a framing and plumbing project first and a bathroom project second. Common versions: converting an under-stair closet or a slice of an oversized bedroom into a half bath, or adding a full bath to a finished attic or bonus room.

Feasibility comes down to three questions, and we can usually answer all three in a single visit:

• Where's the nearest drain stack? Distance and elevation to an existing stack drives most of the plumbing cost. Waste needs fall; supply lines don't care.
• Can the floor carry it? Tile, a tub full of water, and a person add real load. Sometimes the joists are already adequate; sometimes they need sistering.
• Can it be vented properly? Both the drain and the exhaust fan need a legitimate path out. This is the constraint that most often rules out interior closet conversions.